Sunday, July 1, 2007

Please locate Nagorno Karabakh on the map...

A short history (if you’d like): This weekend the AAA interns traveled to war-torn Karabakh, a country seeking independence and recognized only by Armenia. As best as I understand it, after the dissolution of the Soviet block, Karabakh tacked on to Azerbaijan- not fun for the over 90% Armenian population there. The six-year war left the country in shambles- what WWI was for Europe, the NKR war was for the Karabakh-hays (Karabakh Armenians). The Halo Trust (with whom we met) is currently working to demine area all over the country to make it safe for this largely agricultural people to continue on with their lives. The war is not over- Azerbaijan, Armenia and Karabakh have signed a ceasefire. The Foreign Minister was hopeful, enthusiastic, batting diligently at independence like a cat trying to catch a string. “You are a serious girl,” he told me, “you have a bright future.” His pride is uplifting, his determination astute. Karabakh and I share a few things: an undecided future, a mind determined to define that future, and a foreign minister encouraging us forward. I wish the best for the both of us.

A word about us: We have this habit of talking about SOS insurance like we’re second graders with a headache from too much subtraction, assured that with just one phone call somebody will be on their way to shuttle us to safety. We climb up monasteries, down gorges, jump in mineral springs, jump down from steeples. We are an enthusiastic bunch. Curiously enough, I feel safer in Karabakh where fewer speak English, land mines pepper the undergrowth and our bus breaks down on the road upward.

And our hotel: Though religion is abound and faith strong, in our hotel, during our first Karabakh night, there is no looming religiosity. The walls are filled with art of every creed. In lieu of the bible, strategically placed by the bedside, there is a shoehorn, urging us to get up and go. Cover our feet, these people tell us, and find whatever faith you can outside of this place.

Revived from the ATDA office,

Samantha

3 comments:

Dockie said...

Dear Sam, The Azeris have never acknowledged that they should not control Nagorno (maybe undiscovered oil is the reason). Cooler here in East Haven over the weekend--no shorts weather. Love, Dockie

Unknown said...

Control. What a human fantasy! How much, besides our own behavior, do we really have influence over?

So glad you are frolicking away and spreading your serious joy to the world. In my thinking, that goes farther than any control of others we think we might have. Keep passing it on, Sam. The world needs people like you, people who will keep an open mind in the face of differences and shock and awe.

Much love from Sea Cliff,
mama

Unknown said...

Sammy I am so taken back by your diving into the realms of the unknown,I love it...You are running with the travel & exploration gene and taking it to another level. Your writting has such texture. By the way ...if you should be in search of magnetic North on your travels, take a straight pin and rub it on your hair. After magnetizing it place it on a dry leaf and float both in a puddle. It will turn toward the North. Another piece of trivia I recently discovered. I love you Dad